Lake District, perfect escape

Day one took us from Manchester to the stunning Lake Windermere. Drive along the lakeside to catch the most breathtaking views. Another picturesque view — not just of the lake, but of the charming toy-like steam train of the Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway — opens up from the National Trust pier at Fell Foot. Next time, we’re definitely getting a National Trust membership. It makes stops like these smoother and more enjoyable. Some car parks only take coins, and honestly, enjoying a scone by the water shouldn’t come with that kind of stress.

That night, we stayed in the charming village of Grasmere — usually packed with tourists in the summer. This time, it was eerily quiet. Many restaurants and local shops were closed, as is often the case in off-season tourist towns. But don’t let that bring you down — nature never closes.

On day two, we were torn between visiting Rydal Cave or Cathedral Cave — and decided to drive to the latter.

The parking situation wasn’t ideal (Don’t expect to park at the Three Shires Inn, although the car park looked empty, the owner was keeping spaces for visitors and was adamant), but the views more than made up for it. Once a slate quarry, Cathedral Cave features a dramatic main chamber with a soaring ceiling and a huge, window-like opening that floods the space with light — hence the name. Honestly, I wouldn’t have been surprised to spot alien plants… or actual aliens.

This area is also famous for its mountain passes, and that day we drove both Wrynose Pass and Hardknott Pass. If I had to pick just one must-see in the Lake District, this would be it. Adrenaline is guaranteed — some stretches reach a 33% gradient! It’s like nature built its own rollercoaster.

We had planned to hike to Stanley Ghyll Waterfall too, but after so much excitement, we decided to save it for next time. Besides, we were eager to unwind at the beautiful 1692 Wasdale hotel with their hot tub outside. My husband’s birthday was the next morning, and I wanted it to start memorably.

Birthday time! And of course, we planned an epic hike around Lake Buttermere. For me, it was the most beautiful and unforgettable of them all — surrounded by dramatic mountains, it transforms completely with every little climb. It’s like seeing a new version of the lake from every angle.

Make sure to bring hiking poles, because the ascent gets pretty steep — at times, you’re practically scrambling up rocky slopes. But the views, and the tiny alpine lakes hidden in the hills, are more than worth the effort.

Just don’t start too late — driving back in the dark isn’t ideal, especially since the roads in this area are narrow and barely lit.

If we’d had the option to stay somewhere closer, that would’ve been perfect after such a demanding hike. But I really wanted a standalone cottage, so we stayed in the small village of Thornthwaite. And honestly? That view from our window is something I’ll never forget. I only wish we could’ve stayed at least three full days…

We kicked off the next morning with a refreshing stop at Moss Force Waterfall and a short hike to reach it. From there, the road led us through the utterly charming Honister Pass — a route I’d wholeheartedly recommend. The road is a bit narrow, yes, but not too busy. Just take your time and soak in the stunning scenery.

As much as I tried to persuade my husband to check out the Honister Slate Mine, he stood his ground. To be fair, even I got a little spooked just looking at the hanging bridges and the descent into the caves — though one day, I’d still love to give it a try.

Next on the plan was a short walk to Galleny Force Waterfall. Turns out, it had mostly dried up. But if you keep going, you’ll stumble upon a breathtaking river and a lovely little trail that loops around the area. Actually, this spot sits along several long-distance hiking routes that connect Grasmere to Keswick and other nearby towns — it’d be amazing to take a leap and do one of those someday.

Our own adventure wrapped up in Keswick, and we were absolutely smitten with the place. It felt so warm and welcoming, we even found ourselves daydreaming about buying a little house there.

On our last day, our plans took an unexpected turn. Instead of hiking to Aira Force Waterfall, strolling through Holehird Gardens, or visiting the National Trust’s Sizergh estate, we had to head back to Grasmere — all because I’d managed to leave my coat behind (brilliant, I know).

Naturally, I didn’t mind another scenic drive along Lake Windermere, but if you’re ever in the area and want to switch things up, I definitely recommend taking the route back through Kirkstone Pass — the views are well worth it.