Normandy, France

Claude Monet’s garden in Giverny

The road to Giverny from Paris is not the prettiest one, however after a few hours, the world turned upside down and we ended up in the cradle of impressionism. When I was reading about the impressionists I was hardly able to get the gist of the word “impressio” and why Claude Monet drew his garden over and over again with such persistence. But once we arrived at Giverny all these pieces of the puzzle started to assemble and the words filled up with the meaning.

After the garden you could make a quick stop at Panorama du Thuit

Rouen

Rouen is the place of imprisonment and execution of Joan of Arc, the city with the ancient cathedral of the XII century and amazingly old buildings. Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen was also painted by Claude Monet, dissolving in the air.

The iconic landmark of Rouen is considered to be the city clock, placed above the arch, which is thrown across the rue du Gros-Horloge. We know that it is pretty old.

Le Havre

The last stop of our journey’s first part is probably the most atypical French city — Le Havre. Being one of the biggest French seaports, it completely lost its historical heritage during WWII. It was completely rebuilt by Auguste Perret in a style of modern. On the one hand, there are no cosy small French-style houses, but on the other hand, there is unbounded artistic freedom for architectural experiments.

Accomodation

We had a perfect apartment with a sea view and parking. Nos recommandations!

Etretat

That day we discovered the old pirates’ path, escaped from the ocean tide, and received our baptism of fire in the French cliffs. It is all about Etretat.

Even though it was a hot August, the temperature in the morning was quite cold. Of course, we were struck by rocks that looked like the heads of horses and elephants. We climbed higher on the classic route.

About trail

There were no signs of trouble. Rising higher and farther and farther away (the common trail), we did not notice how we found a descent to the beach between the blackberry thickets. Long story short we went along a trail that was not mentioned anywhere.It laid along the beach and started quite calm and peaceful.

I was so shocked that absolutely forgot to take a picture of every single obstacle. There were a lot of ladders, stones, cliffs and rather a tiny waterfall. Sometime later, I remembered that I read a story about a girl who had been stuck on the beach because of the tide. We had to accelerate.

It took a great amount of courage from my husband and me to overcome difficulties and fear. It was especially scary that we had to jump from a three-meter cliff to a pebbled beach with no other options available.

When we eventually reached the final point we realized that this path was forbidden or kind of it. However, if you are a fan of extreme trails, it is definitely worth it.

Honfleur

It is probably the most Norman of all cities. Narrow streets, curtains behind blue lattice windows and a stunningly atmospheric market have influenced us for a long time to come. Do not forget to buy a bottle of cider!

Trouville-sur-Mer - Deauville

Once upon a time, there was a joke: rich bourgeois send their wives to rest in Deauville, and their mistresses to Trouville. Towns are just across the river and they are pretty small but still full of money and rich people. On warm days, you will not only find a parking space (we drove looking for more than an hour), but even food, all the cafes were packed. Whoever rested here: Proust, Dumas, Flaubert, and also Coco Chanel! It was she who dressed women in swimsuits that we know now.

Caen

The centre of the town is of course Caen castle of Duke William. He went down in history as the conqueror of England, the founder of the Norman dynasty of kings. The castle is a very interesting place to walk around and feel the medieval times atmosphere.

Accomodation

We must thank our fantastic host both for her hospitality and for the tasty apple jam from her own garden. It was the first time when we booked just a spare room instead of all at home.

Bayeux

Honestly, it was the oldest town I’ve ever been. Everything looks ancient including sweeping trees and people. So, we didn’t spend a long time there and didn’t visit the famous tapestry, and had just a slow stroll instead. However, I know that tapestry is worth visiting because there were first battle scenes depicted.

Colleville-sur-Mer

If you watched “Saving Private Ryan”, you probably remembered the moment the troops landed, and so, it happened here, on the beach of Omaha in 1944. Because of the fog, the artillery and aircraft, which were supposed to help the landing, missed, and the infantry appeared before the Germans in full view.

The American cemetery impresses not only with an abundance of slender crosses but also with a neatness that you rarely see anywhere.

Cherbourg

It is the town that became popular after the release of the film The Umbrellas of Cherbourg, quite a cult movie musical of the 60s.

To be honest, the town is quite small and we left it for the night. A short walk there was quite enough to see the street with umbrellas and walk along the city bridge.

La Landermer - Port du Hâble

The fifth day was completely devoted to the road to Mont Saint Michel and a little rest. It has many viewpoints, beaches, sand dunes and delicious fresh seafood. I highly recommend starting your day early to capture the peace and quiet of the fishing villages.

Le Sémaphore de la Hague

The place with nice beacon and the remains of fortifications.

Nez de Jobourg

Quite a scenic stop with a great view and trail going down to the sea. But we were attacked by crowds of old ladies and gentlemen and decided not to go further.

Plage de Biville

I do not know why but I recall this place with a special feeling. These beautiful dunes and warm sand are so especially imprinted in my memory. A perfect stop to have a rest and enjoy the lack of people.

Granville

It is a perfect place to stay for just one hour and taste the most delicious fresh seafood in the world in Au P’tit Mareyeur. I bet that you will say me thanks.

So we are on our way to Mont Saint Michel. Don’t be lazy and rent bicycles in the evening and meet the sunset on the way to the castle. In the sunset, it is especially beautiful.

Mont st Michel

Honestly, before this trip, I did not know about the existence of such a beautiful place.

Since the little church was built here, much water has flowed under the bridge. The castle was built on, collapsed, strengthened and built again. Rivers changed course, the French fought the British, the pilgrimage centre turned into a prison, and then back.

The most interesting thing about Mont Saint-Michel is, of course, its high tides and fast low tides. Be sure to check out the video about that. In this part of the continent where they are one of the most powerful. Once it was a big problem for all those who wanted to capture the island.

Bye, Normandy! Hi, Brittany!

Frankly speaking, the Normandy part ended on this spot. But we had one more region in the vicinity called Brittany. That’s where we’ll head on our way back.

Saint-Malo

It can be said for sure that both cities from this region (even Rennes is its capital) have a completely different atmosphere. The houses are more stone, the architecture is more strict.

The city has an excellent hike to the fortress, which is located in the sea. But be careful, here are the most insidious ebb and flow, you will not have time to blink an eye and you will have to swim!

Rennes

I remember the city for two things: there were many signs in an incomprehensible language (we could not decipher it) and an amazing apartment with home appliances of SMEG. It is the capital of the Brittany region, the city itself looks quite majestic, but I would not stay in it for too long.

Le Mans is a special place for car fans like we are. Only once a year there is a race in the Le Mans, and it was at the moment of preparation for the race that we ended up there.

Coincidence, but we never got to the track. Although I strongly advise you to visit and see these space rockets.